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Backyard Covered Patio

Kaye Cotton   Backyard   November 23rd, 2018 - 06:52:49

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Building a covered patio. I first had to tear off a few of the shingles, the existing fascia board, a little bit of the decking as well as this 2x4 that was blocking the end of the rafter tails, and that way I Have access to all of these rafter tails, so I can tie my new roof line into this existing one, but that demo work done. I then started working on setting my pose and I first try to use my drill on the hammer drill setting. However, this concrete is so difficult to get through. I ended up renting a corded hammer drill instead now its kind of difficult to see, but I did pull a chalk line so that I could make sure that all four of my post brackets were going to be in an absolutely straight line where these posters setting the ground is actually on a slight slope, so what I ended up having to do was set the post in place with it still long, and then I would set it at level and ask my husband to come and mark the top of the brackets, and this Gave me the exact angle that I needed to cut the post at, but with the post being so thick and also it being an angled cut. I couldn't use my circular saw so I resorted to using a hand saw to make these cuts.

Next, I moved up to the top, so I can start working on cutting out the notch that will hold the 2 by 8 header. I plan to use and to make this notch I use my circular saw just to make multiple cuts in the area that I needed to be chipped out so that afterward I could use a hammer to break it all loose after breaking all of the pieces. As I came back with a chisel just to make the surface a little bit more smooth, then from there I was able to cut the post to its final height. Making three cuts with the circular saw then having to finish it off with the Hansel, and that is one post complete. So now I can set it in place and attach it to its bracket. I went to the bottom and attached it with so few screws and then repeated the process for the other posts. Now, of course, the ground here is not level so to make sure that all the posts come out to be the exact same height. I would set the two by eight header into place: have one person hold the next post plumb while another person holding it up until it was perfectly level, then the post could be marked taken down. Then I could repeat the process by cutting the angled bottom.

The notch out the top for the two by eight and then cutting it to its final height and attaching it the existing roofline of the shop actually extends past the two outside most posts. So whenever it came time to install the 2 by 8 header, what I did was set it in place and line it up to be in the center of these second pose and then leave all of the excess hanging off that first post, then for the remaining headers, I would just take a measurement from the center of one post to the center of the next making sure to check for plumb on these posts before setting the screws. At this point, I was only worried about making sure the posts were parallel to one another. All right, and then it was on to installing the rafters.

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I am changing the pitch slightly because the existing roofline would end up way too steep. I went with a 212 pitch, which is just fine for the shingle material that I'm going with now. This is the point where I was checking for plumb on the inside of the post to make sure that they were parallel with the building and I could attach it to the existing rafter tails with two screws since I'm going with two by fours. I did make these on 16 inch centers and I use some of those Simpsons strong type brackets to attach them and let me tell you by the end of all of these rafters, I was very worn out and before you say it, I did end up getting A smaller hammer that I could manage a little bit easier now, looking back on it, this is the one thing that I would change if I could, instead of going with a 2x4 on the side, most rafter, I guess I guess it's called the rake. I ended up going with the 2 by 6 and I wish I would have gone with a 2 by 8. But I guess hindsight and all that what I did was cut into the roofline and then cut the 2 by 6 rate. To the exact angle and then just fit it into place and attached it now with the rake in place, I could now cut the 2 by 8 header to the exact link that I needed it. Okay, framing is done on to the decking. So at this point, I had the call and some help in order to get those full sheets up there and of course, it became much easier after getting the very first sheet down. But I would make sure that it would fall on the center of a rafter and then use my pneumatic nailer to nail it all into position.

I first did all of the full sheets along the back and then came back and did all the partial pieces up front. So when you're ducking, you want to stagger your joints, so I intentionally cut this one a little bit shorter, so that it would not be on the same seam as this one all right, moving right along now. It was time to lay down the paper. A buddy mine had a roll of synthetic roofing paper, so he gave it to me for doing this job. Thank you buddy, and instead of using roofing nails, I ended up using my slap stapler and this made very quick work from putting this down and I make sure whenever I got to the back of the roofline, to put the existing paper over this paper, then I came back and applied a drip edge now the shingles on going with only required to repay along the front edge, so I did not have to apply a drip edge to either one of the sides, all right and now onto the shingling. Now the material I'm going with is made by a company called on the lane, and not only do I think that they are prettier than conventional shingles but there. Also more environmentally friendly. They are made up of 50 % recycled material.

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