Wendy Bradley Backyard November 09th, 2018 - 08:58:28
Extra outdoor living space. There's a couple of different shapes and sizes available. What I'm going to use is the 3 by 5 and the charcoal color there's also a variety of different attachments, but don't worry about that. We'll cover that, when I'm actually installing that for this house, we're going to attach a rectangle shade sale. So what we need to do is attach two fixing points to the house and then concrete in two timber posts at the end of the deck and attach the fixing points. After that, we simply attach the shade sail to these fixing points and tighten to fit now. I've decided to Center my shade sail off the house itself, so I'm going to mark out the center of the house on the fascia. Now the center of my house is for 170. Lets put a little pencil mark there cool now, just to help me out. It'S going to put a little tack in here just to hook.
My tape on my Shade Sail is five meters wide, so I'm going to come across half of that which is 2.5. Now that's the end of my shade. So now I need to allow 10 %, which is going to be used for tensioning it later on so T percent onto 5 meters. There'S 500ml I've come half that so half of 500 is 250 ml. So let's put 250 melt on there. Okay, so this is ideally where my first fixing point should be now. Ideally, I want to fix straight into our rafter and behind so I'm just going to have a look around to see where, if I can see that when I have a look for some nails underneath until you some feet might be a clue. If you don't have any nails, I just want to have a tap see what you can find now. I can hear that there is a rafter right there, so that's about six or eight inches away from our first mark. So that's fine! I can move my mark over a little bit because our 250 millimeters is only a minimum, so we can go further as much as we like now, if I didn't have a rafter to fix them so I'd, have to climb inside the roof space and attach a Bracket from a rafter to my fascia then put my pad.
I attached them a fascia now, thankfully I do have a rafter to fix to so what I need to do is drill a hole and then puts their hooks onto that. Okay, now just repeat the process down the other end. Rightio, I've just marked my whole time to get stuck in and do some hard work and dig it, and just remember before you dig wears, be able to check with your local authorities where your pipes and wiser you certainly don't want, hurt anything. You shouldn't I'm using this post hole digger which makes the job a lot easier, but you can just use a spade if you like now, my hole is dug I'm putting scoria on the bottom, so my post doesn't sit on the dead now, just pack, it down Ready for the post next place your post into the hole and plumb it up. There are a number of different posts you can use for this house. We use in an h5 glue-laminated post and we're working with firm ground, which is why we laid a hundred millimeters of scoria before concrete in the post, and you can also use galvanized steel posts like these and if you're working with soft ground you'll need a hundred Mil of concrete and a hundred mil of scoria before concrete in the place in the depth, you'll need to dig your post will vary with the size of your shade, so houses. The five-meter sail so we're going down to 1.2 meters for the three-meter shade. So you need to go down to a depth of 800 millimeters.
One thing I do want to do now attaches a bracket from a post to my deck. That'S going to ensure this is going to stay rock solid, but hey here's a little tip for you when you're drilling a hole using a coach screw. You actually want to choose a drill bit. That'S a couple of little smaller than the shank size of your coach screw. Okay, I've attached my hooks to the house and I've got a height of 2.9 meters from my deck to the center of my hooks. So I'm going to mark on my post here, 2.9 meters off my deck okay from our 2.9 marks, I'm just going to go up about 125 ml to allow me a little bit more on the top of my post. My place is 125 miles square, so I think that'll look good coming up 125 and I'm going to just rule that Square across the back. I'm just going to put a slight angle on the side of the post. It's going to allow for any water to run off. We'Ve got a pretty big post there now we'll just straight across the front and link the two marks up on the side. Also, so I'm now ready to cut my post off. I'm just gonna use. My block plane and just take off all these sharp edges, give it a light. Eros, that's looking pretty good next thing I need to do is going to centralize my two-point-nine mark on the post. Okay, all I need to do now is drill a hole and center. There to tape my Eibach right e8, now, I'm just going to repeat the same process for the other side.
First, I've got a few lengths of chain I've got some s, hooks D shackles and these special little puppies here our turnbuckles now for each shade. So we need a minimum of two tunes. Buckles on this unit. Here, I'm actually going to put four in to make sure it's nice and tight, I'm now going to attach our chain and repeat the process around now. I'm using these chains for extra length as the size of my deck means. My shade cell doesn't reach these fixing points. Every situation is different, so hit down, and my 2/10, if you need help sizing it up now. I've just hooked the chain on roundabout 150ml away from the edge of the house, and I've cut my chain probably about two to three hundred longer. That just gives me a little bit extra to play with now. What I'm going to do is attach all four points and then come back and adjust our turnbuckle so get a nice tension on the chain. Okay, all my four points are attached. Now I've got these fabulous little tune buckles here I've got about a hundred ml of travel on each corner. So that's going to get this nice and tight, but you know what, if you find that you've linked this on the chain a little bit too far down you can always unhook your turnbuckle and slide it up further up the chain, giving you a lot more tension.